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              In the middle of the village
              of Dashtadem, a left turn leads almost immediately to the arched
              gateway to the fortress. 
              Most of the outer circuit wall dates to the last Qajar
              khans of Yerevan, at the beginning of the 19th c.
              However, the fortress is considerably earlier.
              The keep within is a bizarre structure, with half-round
              towers glued onto an earlier Armenian fortress probably of the 10th
              c. Beneath the citadel are substantial cisterns.
              There is also a chapel of S. Sargis beside it, dated to the
              10th c.  An
              elegant Arabic inscription in Kufic letters on the E wall of the
              keep reads:  “May
              Allah exalt him. In the
              blessed month of Safar in the year 570 (September 1174) the lord
              of this strong fortress, the Prince, the great Spasalar, the
              Pillar of the Faith, the Glorifier of Islam, Sultan son of Mahmud
              son of Shavur.” Sultan
              ibn Mahmud, known to Arab historians under the Persian name
              Shahanshah, was the last of a fascinating clan of Kurdish
              adventurers, the Shaddadids, who entered Armenian history in 951 at the city of Dvin.
              This was a period of political chaos, and the Christian and
              Muslim citizens of Dvin, fearful for their women and property,
              invited Muhammad ibn Shaddad and his little tribe to stay and
              protect them as contract warlords. 
              Soon driven out of Dvin, the Shaddadids performed the same
              services for the Muslim folk of Ganja in Azerbaijan, where they
              established themselves as emirs. Until
              1030, they intermittently ruled at Dvin as well. They intermarried
              with the Bagratid princes of Armenia, and seem to have coexisted
              with their Armenian subjects.  After considerable difficulties with the invading Byzantines,
              the Shaddadids welcomed the Seljuk Sultan Alp-Arslan effusively in
                1067,   offering   him   the  
              keys   to   Ganja   and    most
                of    their    treasure.  |