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     In the middle of the village of Dashtadem, a left turn leads almost immediately to the arched gateway to the fortress.  Most of the outer circuit wall dates to the last Qajar khans of Yerevan, at the beginning of the 19th c. However, the fortress is considerably earlier. The keep within is a bizarre structure, with half-round towers glued onto an earlier Armenian fortress probably of the 10th c. Beneath the citadel are substantial cisterns. There is also a chapel of S. Sargis beside it, dated to the 10th c. An elegant Arabic inscription in Kufic letters on the E wall of the keep reads:  “May Allah exalt him. In the blessed month of Safar in the year 570 (September 1174) the lord of this strong fortress, the Prince, the great Spasalar, the Pillar of the Faith, the Glorifier of Islam, Sultan son of Mahmud son of Shavur.” Sultan ibn Mahmud, known to Arab historians under the Persian name Shahanshah, was the last of a fascinating clan of Kurdish adventurers, the Shaddadids, who entered Armenian history in 951 at the city of Dvin. This was a period of political chaos, and the Christian and Muslim citizens of Dvin, fearful for their women and property, invited Muhammad ibn Shaddad and his little tribe to stay and protect them as contract warlords.  Soon driven out of Dvin, the Shaddadids performed the same services for the Muslim folk of Ganja in Azerbaijan, where they established themselves as emirs. Until 1030, they intermittently ruled at Dvin as well. They intermarried with the Bagratid princes of Armenia, and seem to have coexisted with their Armenian subjects.  After considerable difficulties with the invading Byzantines, the Shaddadids welcomed the Seljuk Sultan Alp-Arslan effusively in   1067,   offering   him   the   keys   to   Ganja   and    most   of    their    treasure.

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